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Everyone know that bicycles is good for daily transportation. They are cheap to operate and don't pollute the air. They can provide many advantages for the user. Provide more miles per calorie of energy than any mode of getting around known to humankind.
To get started, you don't have to buy a new bicycle. A properly maintained bike is more than enough. So, a used bike is not too bad.
You can pick up a quality bicycle for a fraction of its original purchase price, and it will give you many years of reliable service. But you'll need to know what to look for.
Your local bike shop is the best place to find a ready-to-ride used bicycle. If the shop is of any quality at all, you can be reasonably assured their used models have been vetted, adjusted and are ready to hit the road. To minimize your disappointment you keep need enough bicycle knowledge to recognize which bikes are junk, and which are treasures.
If you have any question about the bike you have chosen, you can ask the stuff for inspection. Bicycles are simple and reliable, but they must be properly maintained for safe operation
So here are some things you should consider before purchasing any used bike.
Frameset
Carefully check the lugs or welds where the frame is joined together. Welds should be even. Cracking of any kind is a show-stopper. So are bends at the dropouts (where the wheels attach to the frame). There should be no play in the front fork. Small areas of oxidation or rust are primarily just a cosmetic issue
Handlebar
If you can see the hollow of the bars, you must replace the handgrips or bar plugs before saddling up. In an accident — even a minor fall — unplugged bars are an impalement hazard. The bottom of racing-style "butterfly" handlebars should be roughly parallel with the ground. Replace worn or missing bar tape.
Saddle
Replace torn or obviously worn saddles. There should be no play whatsoever. Generally speaking, saddles should be adjusted parallel to the ground. Sitting in the saddle, your leg should have a slight bend at the bottom of the pedal downstroke. If your pelvis rocks when you are pedaling quickly, the saddle is probably too high. Lower it bit by bit until the rocking goes away. Verify that the seatpost clamp is free of cracks or obvious distress.
Brakes
Check for worn or dried-out brake pads. These must be replaced, along with frayed or rusty brake cables. Braking should feel positive. Look for cracked or bent brake levers.
Drivetrain
Wiggle the crankset. Side-to-side play indicates worn bearings or an improperly adjusted bottom bracket. The same applies to pedals. Replace a chain if it's rusty or has frozen links. Chains and rear gear cogs become mated with use, so chain replacement may require the purchase of a new gear cassette. Spin the freewheel and listen for the chatter of broken bearings. Lift the rear wheel and verify that shifting is crisp through all gears. You should be able to shift into the largest and smallest rear gear without the chain jamming or becoming unshipped. If this isn't the case, the gearing requires adjustment. On bicycles with rear derailleurs, inspect the rear brake hanger for bends or cracking.
Wheels
As with the crankset, side-to-side play in a bicycle wheel indicates poorly maintained hubs. Squeeze the spokes with your fingers. The tension should feel equal across the entire wheel. Loose spokes indicate serious problems. Rims require periodic adjustment to remain "true" (straight). Stand over each wheel and use the brake pads as a visual reference. Spin the wheel. A small amount of side-to-side motion can usually be corrected. Up-and-down rim motion cannot. Rims should smooth and free from road impact damage. Tires should hold the rated sidewall pressure. Replace tires exhibiting dry rot, worn tread, damaged sidewalls or tears exposing inner ply.
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